Engineering Analysis – Corrosion Mechanisms: Floor, Shell, Frame and Fasteners

When we took apart the frame, we were surprised to find the frame and fasteners were significantly corroded. The frame crossmembers underneath the vanity was paper thin, the fasteners which held the sub-floor the frame were so embrittled that they snapped off when we tried to remove them.

This was a little concerning to me since I wanted to understand the mechanism to prevent it from happening again.

Galvanic Corrosion: My initial thought was that the predominant corrosion mechanism was galvanic corrosion. Galvanic (or two-metal corrosion) occurs when two metals of different potential (affinity for electrons) are in electrical contact within a corrosive environment. Simply put, the more anodic (i.e., lower EMF metal – Aluminum in this case), gives up its electrons to the more noble metal (Iron in this case). The electrons travel to a place where they can react in an oxidation reaction.

In case you were not aware, Airstreams are constructed with Aluminum and Steel in physical contact with one another, setting the stage for galvanic corrosion to occur.

In Corrosion Engineering, Fontana discusses that galvanic corrosion usually occurs at the metal-metal interface with the corrosion occurring on the more anodic metal (Aluminum). Fontana also discusses a phenomenon known as the area effect in which a large anodic surface areas (e.g., large Aluminum shell) in contact with small cathode interface area (e.g., small steel bolts) will tend to slow the reaction.

In short, what I would’ve seen if galvanic attack was the source of the corrosion was corrosion of the aluminum at the Al-Fe interface. In fact, all of the corrosion I saw was of the iron components (bolts and frame). This indicates that the corrosive mechanism was not galvanic attack.

Now that galvanic was ruled out as a source of corrosion, I started to think about other mechanisms. Looking at the frame showed general overall corrosion with areas of greater thinning. In other words, the whole thing rusted but some areas were worse than others.

Uniform Attack (aka Rust): Per Fontana, uniform attack is the most common form of corrosion and is characterized by an electrochemical reaction that proceeds uniformly over the entire exposed surface. This was the case for most of the frame and it is assumed to be this was the primary source of corrosion.

Hmmm . . . why was the rust really bad in some spots, and not others? Doesn’t sound very ‘uniform’ to me!

Environmental Conditions Affecting Corrosion: You may be wondering why some areas corroded worse than others if the mechanism was essentially the same. The reason can be found in the abundance of oxidizers at the corrosion site.

The presence of oxygen and water will increase the oxidation reaction at the place where those chemicals can be found. The photos above show two such locations: The annular space between the inner and outer shell, and the frame area directly below the bathroom sink. Presumably the outer shell and piping to the sink both leaked.

Representative anodic reaction: Fe -> Fe2+ + 2e

Most likely cathodic reaction: O2 + 2H2O + 4e -> 4OH

Wood Rot: The old sub-floor was made of plywood. Plywood is also susceptible to damage relating to water exposure. However, in this case, it’s susceptible to water absorption, rot and molding. The picture below shows the joint between the sub-floor, c-channel and shell (near the door) and is representative of the wood rot that existed throughout the trailer.

Sub-Floor As-Found Wood-Rot

Corrosion Prevention: It’s unrealistic to assume we can stop all corrosion, but it is reasonable to assume we can slow it down to so that the trailer lasts another 57 years. Here is what we are considering.

  1. Prevent oxidation from occurring at the frame’s metal/air interface by removing that interface through the use of spray-on coatings (i.e., primer & insulation).
  2. Leak-proof the exterior shell. to prevent water from getting into the annular space
  3. Select insulating material which will not hold water (i.e., won’t hold oxidizing medium)
  4. Insulate the iron fasteners from the aluminum shell using gasketing material
  5. Allow for drainage in the shell annular space.
  6. Sacrificial anode (i.e., zinc anode, or zinc galvenization) of the frame so that when oxidation occurs, the metal giving up its electrons is not the steel . . . . or the Aluminum.
  7. Different sub-floor material which is not susceptible to wood rot and/or water absorption.

Chapter 8a: The Subfloor Removal

Question: What kind of floors do submariners walk on?

Answer: The subfloor, of course?

OK, to be honest I had no idea what a subfloor was when we started this whole extravaganza. Stef probably did, but unlike me she’s a real engineer :). I mean, as the name implies, I figured it had something to do with the floor, duh! For those of you who share my lack of understanding of construction lexicon, the subfloor is the floor that sits right on top of the frame and forms the support structure for putting down tile.

As it turns out, the subfloor also has a very important structural function in 1963 Airstreams. It’s kinda like the glue that holds everything together. The axle attaches to the frame. The frame attaches to the subfloor, and the shell attaches to the sub-floor.

I know what you’re thinking . . . “Hmmm . . . why doesn’t the frame attach to the shell?” (at least that’s what I was thinking). I’m not quite sure, but I think a partial reason was to minimize the effects of galvanic corrosion.

In nerd-eze, galvanic corrosion is the corrosion damage which occurs when two dissimilar are brought into electrical contact and the metal with the higher affinity for electrons takes them from the metal with the lower affinity. In this case, steel is a more noble metal compared to aluminum which means aluminum will give up its electrons which will travel through the steel preferentially looking for a place to oxidize a surrounding chemical.

Follow this link to learn a little more about the corrosion we found and what we’re doing about it:

https://ps63airstreamrebuild.com/2023/03/29/engineering-analysis-corrosion-mechanisms-shell-frame-and-fasteners/

The super awesome drawing below shows how that connection was made on this trailer, while the “as found” picture gives you a feel for what we found when we started looking at the screws holding everything together. The third photo shows most of the connection depicted in the drawing (missing the subfloor and shell). Nearly every one of the “fasteners” thoroughly corroded. Some simply snapped off when we started working them with vice grips. (Side note: I’m glad we made it to TX from Northern NM without anything really big coming off.)

Now, I know what you’re thinking. “Pete, what about the belly pan? That’s aluminum right? And it contacts the steel frame directly, right?” Good question. As it happens, belly pan aluminum is a more corrosion resistant (5052 H32 Aluminum in case you are taking notes.)

The subfloor came out relatively easily once we found all of the fasteners and neutralized them with extreme prejudice. The most challenging part was that original subfloor was replaced piecemeal and somebody had used a ton (I mean a s-load) of sheet metal screws to connect the “after-market, non OEM” subfloor to the frame. About 1 in 10 actually connected to something and the rest were safety hazards. (OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer).

Under the subfloor we found another former rodent habitat. This one was more akin to a country villa complete with lounging areas and extra living space.

It’s interesting to note that since the trailer was permanently affixed as an apartment previously, it was hard piped to a septic tank. The “toilet” picture above shows where the toilet used to sit and the hole is where it connected to the septic tank piping. For a fleeting moment we contemplated going back with the “straight pipe” design and relying, instead, of parking over pre-dug holes or flowing bodies of water. 🙂 J/K.

Chapter 7: Pulling Windows, Panels and Insulation

‘Mama Always Said, Life Was Like a Box of Chocolates. You Never Know What You’re Gonna Get.’

Forest Gump

Or in this case it would’ve been more useful if Mama said . . . “Refurbishing a 57 year-old Airstream is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you’re gonna get, or what critters used to live in the walls, or under the frame, or how it was put together, or how it should come apart.”

Those of you who like puzzles and surprises would’ve definitely like this. On a positive surprise standpoint, my son, Tim, surprised us with an unexpected father’s day visit and helped rip some stuff apart!

Windows and Window Frames

The windows were a definite challenge. Each window was framed by an aluminum frame that was glued in place with paint or some sort of sealant. They also had painted in locks and hand cranks which were fastened with stripped out screws. Long story short, it took a while to get the window frames out.

Note: The windows themselves were easily removed (sorry no photo) from the exterior. There is a tongue-in-groove assembly on the outside and they came out with a quick shot of WD-40.

The photo on the left also shows what the long center overhead panels looked like right after we pulled them down.

Panel Removal

Once we got the windows out, the panels came out pretty easily. We went through a ton of drill bits drilling out pop rivets and had some challenges when some rivets were glued in place with sealant. The big surprise here (for me anyway) is that all of the curved aluminum pieces flattened out once we got them removed. This means that we don’t have to shape them when we reinstall.

As we removed the aluminum panels, we came to note that there were tons of aluminum “C Channel” spacers in between the inner and outer walls. They were not connected to anything and fell out during disassembly. My best guess is that they were used to keep the space between the two walls at the correct gap.

Another surprise was that the two upper end pieces were actually fiberglass (we actually figured this out while we were stripping paint). We removed them intact with the hopes of reinstalling them later.

Wildlife Refuge

This is where the surprise part comes in. As my wife will happily tell you, our family house in New Mexico is attractive to rodents. As it turns out, so are 57 year old Airstreams. As we disassembled the walls, we found evidence of spacious multi-level rodent living accommodations complete with food storage. I’m so glad we decided to pull the panels and clean this space out.

Fiberglass Itches

I’ve known for quite a long time that fiberglass itches. I would, however, be remiss as a parent if I didn’t pass that knowledge on to my kids :). The fiberglass came off very quickly (matter of minutes) to expose the power distribution wiring, controls (i.e. brakes and lights) wiring, mastic and outer shell.

There was tons of mastic at the inside of every seam. Presumably for water tightness.

Before and After insulation interior videos.

360 View Before Stripping Insulation

360 View After Stripping Insulation

Chapter 6: Prepping the Interior Walls for Removal

“Chipping Paint . . . What Could Be Better?!?!” Short answer “Just about anything.”

Now that we got the trailer snug into its garage, the timing is right to start gaining access to the annular space between the inner and outer shells. This will give us access to the insulation, power wiring and controls wiring . . . and, as it turns out, many other strange wonderful things (more to follow on later posts).

This is the part of the story where I could tell you that all those years chipping paint in the Navy finally paid off. However, as anybody who was in the Navy with me probably knows, I never actually chipped paint so I had no innate skillset to lean on. No time like the present . . .

Primarily for economic reasons aimed at reusing the old aluminum panels, we decided to strip as much of the existing paint as possible before removing the panels.

This ended up requiring a little trial and error.

  1. First attempt: We applied paint solvent then tried to peel the paint . . didn’t work.
  2. Second Attempt: We tried an orbital sander . . . worked but very slow.
  3. Third Attempt: We tried a silicon carbide wheel attached to a drill . . . worked by kinda slow.
  4. Fourth Attempt: We tried a silicon carbide wheel attached to an angle grinder . . . Heck yea! Get some!

This is the interior right before we removed the interior wall panels and end bell pieces.

It took about a week to strip the paint and another few days to remove the panels. This 3D video gives a good look at the interior after we got done stripping the paint, but before we pulled the interior walls. Please excuse the disembodied feet.